Melasma vs Sun Spots: How to Tell the Difference and Treat Each

Melasma and sun spots both show up as darker patches on the skin, but they have different causes and don't always respond to the same treatment. Sun spots are straightforward sun damage — accumulated UV exposure showing up as small, defined marks. Melasma is hormonally driven, tends to appear in larger, more symmetrical patches, and is often more stubborn to treat. Telling them apart matters before you commit to a routine.

Two Patches, Two Causes

Sun spots, sometimes called age spots, are caused by years of cumulative UV exposure triggering localised overproduction of melanin. They tend to be small, well-defined, and scattered — appearing on the hands, face, shoulders, and anywhere else that's seen consistent sun over time. They respond fairly predictably to brightening actives and consistent sun protection, since the cause is mechanical: too much UV, too little defence.

Melasma is a different mechanism entirely. It's driven by hormonal fluctuation — pregnancy, hormonal contraception, and hormone therapy are all common triggers — and tends to appear as larger, more symmetrical patches, often across the cheeks, forehead, and upper lip. Because the trigger is internal rather than purely environmental, melasma can be more resistant to standard brightening routines and is more prone to recurring, even after it's faded.

How to Tell Which One You Have

• Size and shape: sun spots are usually small and scattered; melasma tends to be larger, blotchier, and symmetrical across both sides of the face
• Triggers: sun spots correlate with cumulative sun exposure over years; melasma often appears or worsens around pregnancy, hormonal changes, or starting hormonal medication
• Location: melasma favours the cheeks, forehead, and upper lip; sun spots can appear anywhere that's had sun exposure, including hands and shoulders

What Helps Each

For sun spots

Brightening actives that inhibit melanin production — vitamin C, niacinamide, and kojic acid are all reasonable choices — paired with consistent SPF tend to show steady improvement over a few months. Since the cause is largely external, removing the ongoing UV exposure is half the work.

For melasma

The same brightening actives can help, but melasma often needs a more patient, layered approach, and in persistent cases, a dermatologist-guided treatment plan. Azelaic acid is frequently well tolerated and effective here, since it treats pigmentation without some of the irritation risk of stronger options. SPF is non-negotiable for both, but especially critical for melasma, since even brief UV exposure can trigger a flare.

Building a Routine

1. Cleanse
2. Apply a brightening serum — vitamin C in the morning, or azelaic acid if pigmentation is paired with sensitivity
3. Moisturise
4. SPF50, reapplied through the day, every single day regardless of weather

Consistency matters more than intensity here. A moderate routine followed daily for months will usually outperform a stronger routine followed inconsistently.

When to See a Dermatologist

If pigmentation is widespread, resistant to several months of consistent at-home care, or you suspect melasma specifically, a dermatologist can offer treatments — including prescription options — that go beyond what's available over the counter.

Shop the Pigmentation Collection

Eastern Curlew's Pigmentation collection covers brightening serums and treatments suited to both sun spots and melasma-prone skin. Browse the full range from Eastern Curlew.

FAQ

Can melasma go away on its own?
Sometimes, particularly if it's pregnancy-related and resolves after hormone levels return to baseline. Persistent melasma usually needs active treatment and ongoing sun protection.

Is melasma permanent?
Not necessarily, but it can be more stubborn and prone to recurrence than sun spots, especially without consistent SPF use.

Do sun spots need professional treatment?
Not always — many respond well to consistent brightening actives and sun protection at home, though stubborn or changing spots are worth having checked.