Nasolabial Lines and Smile Lines: A Skincare-First Approach

Nasolabial lines and smile lines are two of the most common things people search for when fine lines around the mouth and nose start showing up — and the honest answer is that skincare alone has limits here, but a consistent routine genuinely does soften their appearance, particularly when caught early.

Why These Lines Form

Nasolabial lines run from the sides of the nose down to the corners of the mouth. Smile lines, sometimes used interchangeably but technically referring more to the lines that form specifically with expression, sit in a similar area. Both form through a combination of repeated facial movement, gradual loss of volume and collagen as skin ages, and — for nasolabial lines especially — the simple structure of the face, since everyone has some degree of fold there even at rest.

This is worth knowing upfront: these lines are partly structural, not purely a sign of neglect or damage. A skincare routine can soften their appearance and slow how pronounced they become, but it's not realistic to expect them to disappear entirely through topical products alone, especially once they're well established.

What Actually Helps

Peptides and collagen support

Since volume loss and reduced collagen production contribute to these lines becoming more pronounced, peptide serums that support the skin's own collagen production are a reasonable, evidence-backed starting point. Results are gradual rather than dramatic, but consistent use over months can soften the overall look of the area.

Retinoids

Retinol or retinal increase cell turnover and have reasonable evidence for improving the appearance of fine lines over consistent use. They're more proven for this than most other topical options, though they require a gradual introduction to avoid irritation.

Hydration

Dehydrated skin makes any fine line look more pronounced, simply because there's less plumpness softening the area. A genuinely hydrating moisturiser, paired with a hyaluronic acid serum underneath, can make an immediate, if temporary, difference in how deep these lines appear.

What Skincare Won't Fully Fix

Once nasolabial folds are well established, particularly the structural kind that's present even with a neutral expression, topical skincare has a ceiling. This is where in-clinic treatments — dermal fillers being the most common approach for nasolabial folds specifically — start to outperform what any serum can achieve. That's a separate conversation from a daily routine, but worth knowing so expectations stay realistic.

Building a Routine

1. Cleanse
2. Apply a hyaluronic acid serum to damp skin
3. Layer a peptide serum or retinoid, depending on your skin's tolerance and what night it is
4. Moisturise to lock in hydration
5. SPF every morning — UV exposure accelerates the collagen breakdown that makes these lines more pronounced over time

When to See a Dermatologist

If these lines are a significant concern and topical care over several months hasn't made the difference you're after, a dermatologist or cosmetic clinic can discuss in-clinic options that address volume loss more directly than skincare alone.

Shop the Collection

Eastern Curlew's Anti-Ageing collection includes peptide serums and hydrating formulas suited to softening the appearance of fine lines. Browse the full range from Eastern Curlew.

FAQ

Can skincare actually remove nasolabial lines?
Not entirely once they're well established — skincare can soften their appearance and slow progression, but structural volume loss usually needs in-clinic treatment for a more dramatic change.

What's the difference between nasolabial lines and smile lines?
They occupy a similar area, but nasolabial lines specifically run from the nose to the mouth and exist to some degree even at rest, while smile lines are more directly tied to expression.

Do fillers work better than skincare for these lines?
For established, structural folds, yes — fillers address the volume loss directly, while skincare works more on skin quality and gradual improvement over time.